Tuesday, August 12, 2025

An intro to Bordeaux

Bordeaux wines are renowned as some of the finest in the world. However, the most prestigious bottles—known as Grand Cru—have become so expensive that they’re now out of reach for most people. These top-tier wines, often priced at over $1,000 a bottle, are typically reserved for the wealthy and famous.

But here’s the good news: Bordeaux offers far more than just its elite First Growths and Grand Cru labels, which actually make up only about 1% of the region’s total wine production. There’s tremendous value to be found across the rest of Bordeaux.

One of the region’s greatest strengths is its diversity. Bordeaux produces an impressive range of styles—from exceptional red wines to crisp dry whites, luscious sweet whites, refreshing rosés, and even sparkling Crémants. There truly is something for every taste and budget.

The map below clearly shows Bordeaux’s location at 45º latitude in southwest France, along with its various appellations and the styles of wine they produce. The CIVB (Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux) uses red dots to indicate red wine appellations, yellow for dry whites, and orange for sweet wines.

Traditionally, Bordeaux’s red AOPs (Appellations d’Origine Protégée) have been grouped into two main categories:

  1. Left Bank – Located on the left side of the Gironde estuary, this area is known for Cabernet Sauvignon–dominant blends. Key appellations include Médoc, St. Estèphe, Pauillac, Listrac, Margaux, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux.

  2. Right Bank – Situated on the opposite side of the river, these appellations favor Merlot-driven wines. Notable regions include Pomerol, Lalande-de-Pomerol, St. Émilion, Côtes de Blaye, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac, and Côtes de Castillon.

The distinction between Bordeaux’s Left and Right Banks is largely rooted in soil composition. The Left Bank is characterized by gravelly soils, which are warm and well-draining—ideal conditions for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. In contrast, the Right Bank features predominantly clay and limestone soils, which retain more moisture and remain cooler, favoring the earlier-ripening Merlot grape.

Bordeaux’s maritime climate, moderated by the Atlantic Ocean, also plays a critical role in viticulture. The region experiences long summers and significant rainfall, which can pose challenges such as mildew and fruit rot. Historically, vintage variation in Bordeaux was significant due to inconsistent ripening. However, climate change has reduced this variability. Warmer vintages now consistently achieve full ripeness, resulting in rounder, fuller-bodied wines, while cooler years tend to produce wines with more structure and herbal nuances.

    
Picture of the Garonne River above.

Because each grape variety has different ripening needs—Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance, requires more heat and ripens up to three weeks later than Merlot—Bordeaux winemakers must adapt their approach accordingly. This disparity is one reason why blending is central to Bordeaux winemaking. By combining varieties, producers craft wines that are more balanced, complex, and expressive than any single grape could deliver on its own.

Bordeaux permits six classic red grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (the most widely planted), Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carménère, and Cabernet Franc. In addition to its acclaimed reds, Bordeaux also produces notable white wines, primarily dry styles crafted from Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, and Sémillon, especially in the Entre-Deux-Mers area, though other key white wine regions are indicated on the map above.

Bordeaux is also renowned for its sweet dessert wines, made from the same white grape varieties. These wines are primarily produced in appellations located south of the Left Bank, including Barsac, Loupiac, Monbazillac,Cerons, and the prestigious Sauternes. These sweet wines are crafted from grapes affected by Noble Rot (Botrytis cinerea), which concentrates the sugars and flavors.

As France’s largest AOP wine region, Bordeaux spans approximately 111,000 hectares and produces around 5 million hectolitres of wine annually. The region includes 65 AOPs and is home to more than 6,000 producers, comprising estates, cooperatives, and négociants (merchants). While 56% of Bordeaux wines are consumed domestically, the remaining 44% are exported, with major markets including China, Hong Kong, the United States, and the United Kingdom.

At the entry level, Bordeaux AOP wines—typically Merlot-based and sourced from across the region—offer approachable and affordable options. A step up in quality, Bordeaux Supérieur wines are produced under stricter regulations, including lower yields, resulting in greater concentration and complexity.

District-specific AOPs such as Médoc or Haut-Médoc generally indicate further improvements in quality. Within these, commune-level appellations like Pauillac, St. Estèphe, Margaux, and St. Julien are considered among the most prestigious. Unlike Burgundy, where vineyard location dictates classification, Bordeaux’s reputation centers more on the château, meaning an estate's brand can maintain prestige even if its vineyards span varying locations and qualities.

The most influential classification in Bordeaux remains the 1855 Classification, commissioned by Napoleon III for the Paris Universal Exposition. This system ranked Médoc and Graves estates into five tiers, with First Growths (Premiers Crus) at the top:

First Growths: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion (my next post will be dedicated to this winery), Château Margaux, and Château Latour.

Second Growths: Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Pichon Longueville,Château Lascombes,Château Léoville-Las Cases, etc.

Third Growths: Château Palmer, Château d’Issan,Château Boyd-Cantenac, Château Kirwan, etc.

Fourth Growths: Château Talbot, Château La Tour Carnet,Château Prieuré-Lichine, etc.

Fifth Growths: Château d’Armailhac, Château Clerc-Milon, Château Croizet-Bages, etc

Additional systems include the Graves Classification (established in 1953) and the Saint-Émilion Classification (established in 1954 and updated roughly every decade). The latter ranks wines into Grand Cru Classé, Grand Cru Classé B, and Premier Grand Cru Classé A. Interestingly, Pomerol, despite producing some of Bordeaux’s finest Merlot wines, has no formal classification.

Recognizing that many quality producers were excluded from this system, the Cru Bourgeois classification was introduced in 1932 (most recently revised in 2020). It features three tiers—Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel—and is based on blind tastings of five recent vintages. Unlike the 1855 system, it emphasizes wine quality over château reputation.

For those seeking quality without breaking the bank, Cru Bourgeois wines often deliver outstanding value, typically priced between $40–$80. For more affordable options, explore satellite appellations such as Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Castillon, Listrac, and Fronsac, or look to district-level wines from Haut-Médoc and Médoc, where solid bottles can be found in the $20–$40 range.

If you're new to Bordeaux, critics' reviews are invaluable in navigating both vintage variation and value wines.

And now to my recommendations:

I was in Bordeaux last May and I didn't have enough time to taste everything I wanted! These are some of the wines that I did manage to taste and which I loved! Cheers, Silvina

  1. AOC Crémant Rosé de Bordeaux B de Bonhoste (Brut) NV $20
  2. AOC Pessac LéognanLe Clementine de Pape Clement Blanc (Château Pape Clement) 2020, $60
  3. AOC Pessac Léognan Château Pape Clement Blanc 2019, $149
  4. AOC Pessac Leognan Château Luchey Halde 2014 $42
  5. AOC Saint Estephe, Château Phelan Segur 2015 $60
  6. AOC Pessac Léognan Château Pape Clement Rouge 2016, $117
  7. AOC Cérons Grand Enclos de Château de Cerons (sweet) 2018 $80



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#Bordeaux, #Bordeauxwines #Frenchwine#thoughtsoflawina #winewednesday #bordeauxrouge #bordeauxblanc.

Monday, July 28, 2025

Light & Refreshing Summer Sips for Entertaining

When the temperatures rise, our palates naturally crave wines that are crisp, refreshing, and easy to sip. Light wines—whether white or rosé—are the perfect match for summer’s carefree vibe. With lower alcohol, fewer calories, and vibrant, zesty flavors, they’re ideal for long afternoons, outdoor gatherings, and relaxed evenings under the stars.

Whether you’re hosting a beach picnic, a backyard brunch, or simply unwinding by the patio or pool, these bright, low-alcohol wines keep things light, fresh, and effortlessly enjoyable—offering pure, uncomplicated refreshment.
Ready to find your perfect summer sip? Let’s dive in with these two selections from Ventessa by Mezzacorona.  
             

Ventessa Pinot Grigio 2023– Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT ($10.99)

A true summer classic, Pinot Grigio is celebrated for its citrusy brightness, crisp texture, and refreshingly low alcohol—coming in at just 9% ABV and only 90 calories per serving. Ventessa Pinot Grigio takes this beloved style to the next level with a beautifully pure and vibrant expression of the grape. Crafted from 100% hand-harvested grapes, it delights the senses with delicate floral aromas and juicy notes of melon and white peach. Light, zesty, and wonderfully refreshing, this Pinot Grigio is the perfect aperitif for warm evenings and pairs effortlessly with finger foods, fresh cheeses, summer salads, and even light, crispy fried bites.

Ventessa Pinot Grigio Rosé 2024 – Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT ($10.99) 

Rosé is practically synonymous with summer—and Ventessa Pinot Grigio Rosé proves exactly why. Light-bodied, pale pink, and beautifully dry, it opens with inviting aromas of red berries and pink grapefruit, accented by delicate floral notes. On the palate, crisp acidity and a subtle touch of saltiness make it bright, clean, and endlessly refreshing. Perfect for backyard brunches, beach picnics, or poolside lounging, this rosé is your go-to for any relaxed summer moment.
So, what are you waiting for? These light white and rosé wines are the ultimate companions for easy, breezy summer entertaining—versatile, delicious, and perfectly in tune with the spirit of the season. Cheers, Silvina 
            
#thoughtsoflawina #Summerwines #Ventessa

Tuesday, July 15, 2025

Isabel Estate: Wines of Purity and Elegance

If you've been following my writing for a while, you already know my deep affection for wines that foreground acidity, finesse, and terroir transparency. So when the opportunity arose to meet Jeremy McKenzie, the chief winemaker at Isabel Estate, I didn't hesitate. My longstanding admiration for New Zealand wines—particularly those from Marlborough—is rooted in the region's unique interplay of maritime climate, intense sunlight, and exceptional vineyard expression. Few places in the world marry vibrancy with structure, especially in an era increasingly shaped by the effects of climate change.
Marlborough continues to distinguish itself as a viticultural gem, producing wines that are luminous, concentrated, and brimming with tension and energy. Even more compelling is New Zealand's remarkable price-to-quality ratio— with most bottles remaining under $35, which makes New Zealand a tremendous value!
I had the pleasure of spending an hour in conversation with Jeremy McKenzie, delving into both his personal philosophy and the story of Isabel Estate.
The Isabel Estate story begins, as many good ones do, with a bit of magic. In the early 1980s, Mike Tiller—a pilot with a sharp eye and, evidently, great instincts—was flying over the Wairau Valley when he spotted what he believed could be the perfect vineyard site. And like that, Isabel Estate was born. (The name is a tribute to Mike’s mother, which somehow makes the whole thing even more poetic.) This aerial epiphany coincided with the emergence of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc revolution—a phenomenon that changed the white wine world forever.
But Isabel Estate is far from a one-varietal story. While Sauvignon Blanc remains important, McKenzie—who spent time in Burgundy at the beginning of his career—also crafts poised, site-driven expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The estate’s portfolio further includes Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Syrah, each treated with the same level of precision and respect for origin.
McKenzie's
winemaking is deeply rooted in minimal intervention. The estate sources exclusively from its own vineyards, with vine age averaging between 30 and 35 years—a notable achievement in a relatively young wine-producing country. Approximately 42% of the estate is certified organic, with the remainder cultivated under strict sustainable protocols. Dry farming is favored, with irrigation used judiciously and only when necessary. Fermentations are spontaneous, driven by natural yeasts, and conducted across a thoughtful range of vessels, including clay amphorae, stainless steel, and French oak barrels. The overarching aim: to concentrate flavors and to build texture while allowing the unadulterated character of the fruit to take center stage.
During our meeting, I had the chance to taste three of Isabel’s flagship wines, each revealing a compelling portrait of Marlborough uniqueness, as all are single vineyard wines.
Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2024 – $22
Lively and precise, this wine exudes notes of grapefruit zest, lime leaf, and lemongrass, underpinned by a saline, mineral edge. Its vibrant acidity and lithe structure make for a wine that is both engaging and endlessly drinkable. Unlike many Marlborough Sauvignons that lean into overt herbaceousness, this rendition strikes a balance between intensity and restraint. A modest 10% barrel fermentation lends subtle texture and depth, suggesting a stylistic bridge between New and Old World paradigms.
Isabel Estate Chardonnay 2022 – $22
A standout for me. This Chardonnay undergoes full barrel fermentation, followed by natural malolactic fermentation and five months of lees aging. The result is a wine of remarkable poise and depth, offering layers of flinty gun smoke, ripe white nectarine, and a whisper of vanilla. Creamy and voluptuous on the palate, it remains impeccably balanced by freshness and minerality. The oak is masterfully integrated, enhancing rather than obscuring the wine’s elegant core.
Isabel Estate Pinot Noir 2021 – $28
Crafted using whole-bunch fermentation to elevate aromatic complexity, this Pinot Noir is red silk in a bottle. The organically farmed grapes come from vines averaging nearly 30 years in age, and 25% of the wine sees aging in new French oak. The result is a seductive, perfumed red with notes of cranberry, black cherry, violet, white pepper, and wild herbs. Fine-grained tannins frame the fruit beautifully, recalling some of the more refined bottlings from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
The best of all, each of these wines costs between $22 and $30—a compelling proposition for wines of this caliber. If you're seeking authenticity, craftsmanship, and value, Isabel Estate delivers on all fronts.

As always, I invite you to taste them and to tag me on Instagram—I’d love to hear from you. Until next time, Cheers! Silvina

#thoughtsoflawina #winewednesday #newzealand #marlborough #sauvignonblanc #pinotnoir #Isabelestate

All pictures used with the permission of Isabel Estate winery.

Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Climate and Wine Styles

Climate is one of  the most important factors influencing wine style. It's important to the wine producer, as it will determine the size of the crop and its quality, the raw materials for crafting wines. Similarly, it’s also important to the wine drinker/consumer, as climate will determine the style of the wine, influencing preferences and guiding expectations when exploring unfamiliar wine regions.

Fundamentally, the quality of wine hinges on ripe fruit. Sunlight plays a pivotal role in grape ripening during the growing season. Vines, like all plants, require sunlight, water, and a good soil to thrive. A concept encapsulated in the French concept of “Terroir”. Terroir is the marriage of grape variety, climate and soil and how these three elements combine and relate among each other. Excessive sunlight results in overripe grapes with stewed fruit flavors, ripe tannins, low acidity, high alcohol and fuller bodies in wine. On the contrary, insufficient sun yields underripe fruit with green herbaceous notes, green tannins, high acidity, low alcohol and lighter bodies in wine. Winegrowers navigate between these two extremes to achieve the balance needed to produce their desired wine styles.  


Understanding and learning about climate is crucial for consumers, as it provides insights into any wine’s style. This is a topic that fascinated me from the beginning, and that it was kind of an Eureka moment for me. I first read about this topic, from MS Andrea Robinson, in her book “Great Wine Made Simple”.  In one of her chapters, Andrea talked about the flavor map of the wine world, which made total sense to me. She explained that grapes can grow on delimited areas, specifically those located between 30º and 50º latitude north and south of the equator and then proceeded to divide wine regions in three groups, cool zones which will be those farthest away from the equator, warm zones the ones closest to the equator, and moderate zones in the happy middle. 


Stylistically, each zone will produce a different style of wine, with specific aromatics and personality and as follows:


Cool Climate wines are usually subtle and exhibit high acidity, light to medium bodies, lower to medium alcohol, zero tannins or balanced tannins. Their fresh fruit could be intense or not depending on the grape variety. Their aromas and flavors tend to be lean and tart; for whites, aromas and flavors of apples, pears, lime, lemon, and grapefruit.  Along with vegetal nuances such as asparagus, green pepper or tomato leaf. While reds, feature red fruits such as cranberry, strawberry, red cherry and raspberry and herbal notes such as green pepper and mint.


Moderate Climate wines offer more substance than those from the first group, balancing acidity and alcohol, with medium to full bodies, some oak notes and medium to heavy tannins. The increased sunlight in these regions results in ripe, juicy whites with aromas of apricots, peaches and melons. And reds with flavors of black fruits like cherries, plums and blackberries.

Warm Climate Wines are usually luscious and bolder, characterized by overripe and cooked fruit flavors, big bodies, high alcohol content and low acidity levels. Though this can be altered by the winemaker adding tartaric acid. Tannins range from medium to heavy depending on the grape variety and or winemaking intent. Warm climate wines are usually round and big, whites exuding very tropical notes of mango, pineapple, papaya, banana, guava and passion fruit. While reds offer aromas and flavors of cooked black or raisined fruits, including figs, prunes, raisins, stewed blackberries, etc. 

But latitude alone does not solely determine climate, since mesoclimate (regional climate) and  microclimate (the climate in the canopy or row of vines) may also play a pivotal role. It’s not unusual to see wines made from grapes from the same plot that taste completely different, because of their different microclimates. Factors influencing ripeness in grapes include solar radiation and heat accumulation. Solar radiation is key to an optimal photosynthesis process, and important from bloom to harvest. Specific temperatures are required so that certain varieties can develop their color, flavor, aromas, polyphenols and tannins. 

In normal times, vines rest during the winter with their cycle kicking off when the temperatures reach 50º Fh. This is why frost can be so damaging, lower temperatures than 50º Fh during flowering or setting can seriously affect yields and disrupt the whole process.  


Heat accumulation from the soils reflects heat onto vines, and aids flowering, maturation and ripening. Topography, as well as orientation, are crucial. In cool climates such as Germany’s Mosel, south facing slopes maximize sun exposure. Proximity to large bodies of water moderates temperatures, as rivers reflect sunlight, slightly increasing temperatures sometimes by 1º or 2ºFh.  Oceans, on the other hand, provide cool breezes, refreshing vineyards, as found in Casablanca, (Chile) or Carneros, (California). 

Elevation also influences climate, higher altitude, like in Mendoza and Salta in Argentina can make all the difference, since temperatures go down the higher we go up. No wonder Nicolas Catena experimented planting malbec at different altitudes, always looking to find the ideal spot that will make the most elegant wine.  Local winds play a dual role, reducing excessive humidity, eliminating extra moisture and circulating air, preventing fungal diseases; yet overly strong winds can also shut down photosynthesis as well as break shoots, flowers and fruit.


Grape variety selection aligned with climate and site conditions is paramount, as not all grapes thrive in every climate.  Some of them thrive in cool zones, and don’t do well in warm zones, while others need the hot/ mediterranean climates to fully mature and express themselves. In general most grapes mature within temperatures that go from 55º to 72º Fh. Some varieties require warmth during the day but prefer cool nights, while others do better when it’s warm both during the day and at night.  Cool climates will favor varieties such as  Müller Thurgau, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir (the only red that likes coolness), Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Moderate weather favors varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Sémillon, Tempranillo, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier.  While warm weather varieties usually require extra warmth, such as in the cases of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignane and Zinfandel.

Ultimately, climate variability within a region profoundly impacts wine styles. Burgundy's cooler, less sunny conditions yield a markedly different Pinot Noir compared to sunnier, warmer Carneros. Some grape varieties thrive in cool climates but excel in warm vintages. Thus, beyond regional or local climate, annual weather patterns during the growing season significantly influence wine quality, from rain timing and quantity to temperature fluctuations. The length of the growing season also varies according to climate, for example in moderate zones, it goes from 170 to 190 days, while in warm and hot zones, the growing season is shorter, usually up to 140 days, and in cool zones, is longer, sometimes lasting up to 220 days. 

Before harvest, growers monitor grape acidity and sugar levels closely, adjusting harvest times as needed to maximize flavor concentration while preserving freshness.  In some vineyards, this will require the harvest to start at different times, all to obtain “optimal ripeness” or the best raw material, to make exceptional wines. Cheers! Silvina.


#climateandwines #coolclimatewines #warmclimatewines #moderateclimatewines #thoughtsoflawina #WineWednesday #drinkupamerica