Not every appellation is blessed with the ability to produce extraordinary wines. But among the many, one stands out— Montalcino, a place where Sangiovese grapes can grow to perfection. I mean no disrespect to Chianti Classico—it, too, produces excellent Sangiovese—but the ripeness and complexity found in Brunello are unique to Montalcino.
The region benefits not only from a warmer climate than Chianti, but also from higher elevations, creating ideal conditions to grow this grape. Moreover, Brunello is made from a special clone—or group of clones—of Sangiovese, known locally as Sangiovese Grosso. According to Biondi Santi, the pioneering producer of Brunello, this clone was originally identified in Montalcino itself.
But where exactly is Montalcino? It’s located just south of Chianti—about an hour’s drive—in the very heart of Tuscany. Unlike Chianti, Montalcino is much smaller, with about 2,100 hectares dedicated to vineyards. Interestingly, the wines here vary depending on the soil type. Grapes grown in clay-rich soils tend to produce wines that are fuller-bodied, darker in color, and more tannic. In contrast, wines from grapes grown in galestro soils (a type of flaky marl or schist often containing limestone) are generally lighter, more floral, and more refined. These primary soil types are often interwoven with layers of volcanic material, schist, and abundant limestone, adding further complexity to the final wine. The climate in Montalcino is Mediterranean, but the varied altitudes—ranging from 150 to 650 meters above sea level—create a mosaic of microclimates.
By law, Brunello di Montalcino must be made from 100% Sangiovese. This strict regulation came under the spotlight in 2008 during what was known as “the Brunello gate”, a scandal, in which producers were accused of illegally adding international grape varieties to their blends to enhance their wines. Yields are also tightly regulated by law, to ensure quality: a maximum of 8 tons per hectare for Brunello and 9 tons for Rosso di Montalcino.
These wines are built to age, and by law, Brunello di Montalcino Normale must age for a minimum of five years before release with at least two of them spent in oak and four months in a bottle. On the other hand, Brunello Riservas are aged for a minimum of six years, with two years spent in oak and at least six months in a bottle.
Traditional Brunellos are aged in large botti—typically Slavonian oak barrels—which impart minimal oak flavor, allowing the purity of Sangiovese to shine. In contrast, more modern Brunellos are often aged in smaller, new French oak barrels, which lend additional tannin and notes of vanilla and spice.
And then there’s also Rosso di Montalcino, essentially the younger sibling of Brunello (some call it “baby Brunello”). It is made from either younger vines, less prestigious vineyard sites, or lesser vintages—it requires only one year of aging and it is released as early as September 1st of the year following the harvest. For many producers, Rosso offers a way to generate revenue while waiting for their Brunellos (both Normale and Riserva) to mature.
Stylistically, Brunello shows a medium-plus body with vibrant acidity and firm structure. Its aromatic profile often includes fresh plum, black cherry, violet, and blackberry. As it ages, more complex notes emerge—think mocha, leather, chocolate, and licorice. The tannins can be quite pronounced in youth, softening gracefully over time into a supple, elegant texture. Compared to Chiantis, Brunellos are bolder, more concentrated, and have greater body and structure, while retaining remarkable elegance and depth.
My Wine Recommendations that I tasted recently:
Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2019, $65 (not pictured)
Armilla Brunello di Montalcino 2018,$48 (not pictured)
Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2018, $65 (not pictured)
Casanova Di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2018, $70
Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2019, $65 (not pictured)
Armilla Brunello di Montalcino 2018,$48 (not pictured)
Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2018, $65 (not pictured)
Casanova Di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2018, $70
Other recommended producers:
Allow me to say that Montalcino is one of these areas in which is going to be almost impossible to make bad wine, not only the quality standards are super high, but also because of the conditions, to my surprise wines from these wineries have received above 90 pts by most Wine magazines too!: Altesino, Argiano, Antinori,Biondi Santi, Caparzo,Castello Banfi,Castiglion del Bosco, Casanova di Neri, Fattoria di Barbi, Fattoi, Luce della vite, La Serena,Le Chiuse, Le Macioche and Poggio Antico.
A warning: Brunello isn’t a budget wine. But it’s a luxurious treat—and if you love Sangiovese in any form, it’s an experience you absolutely owe to yourself! Cheers! Silvina
#thoughtsoflawina #brunellodimontalcino #italy #italianwines
