One of the perks of having a wine blog, as you can imagine, is the free samples. Throughout the year, I receive emails offering me bottles of new releases to celebrate the holidays or, in this case, a new season (Spring). We’re in the very heart of Spring right now, and chances are many of us are already gravitating toward whites rather than reds. So when I came across this selection I’m about to recommend at the end, I just had to say yes to the offer and thought about taking on a fun challenge, how about:
Old World vs. New World Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. Who will reign supreme?
But first, a clarification, when we talk about Old World and New World wines, what do we mean?
Geographically speaking, "Old World" refers to the traditional wine-producing countries in Europe — France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Greece, and so on. These countries have centuries of winemaking experience. On the other hand, the "New World" includes countries where wine production began relatively recently (since the 1960s) like the United States (California, Oregon, Washington, New York), Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay.
These terms also refer to wine styles, and how it is influenced by climate, in other words how alcohol, body, fruitiness, acidity, sweetness, and tannins differ. Historically, Old World wines were easy to distinguish because coming from cooler climates, they used to have low to medium alcohol, light to medium bodies, and high acidity. They often displayed earthy aromas like herbs, stones, spices and minerality. These characteristics were due to less than ideal vintages (less sun), but also to higher fermentation temperatures and less skin maceration during the winemaking process. They are also labeled by the name of the appellation and not by the grape variety (except in Alsace and Germany).
In contrast, New World wines typically benefited from sunnier climates, resulting in riper fruit and therefore, wines with higher alcohol levels, fuller bodies, lower acidity, and more intense fruit aromas. Fermentations took place at cooler temperatures to preserve their fruity profile and in some cases very floral aromas, and when oak aging occurred it provided noticeable flavors such as vanilla, coconut or butterscotch. They are usually labeled by the grape variety.
The problem is that these differences that were once so clear, are becoming less and less distinct, especially as climate change has warmed up regions across the globe, including those in the Old World. This has affected their styles, yielding full body wines and higher and higher alcohol levels. And at the same time new world producers are walking away from their riper styles in search for higher acidity and elegance, and less alcohol, in an attempt to produce fresher and vibrant wines.
So, the time to taste has arrived! It’s France vs the US. Who will be the winner?
Joseph Mellot Sancerre “La Chatellenie” 2023, $43
This refined Sancerre comes from the esteemed 55-acre La Chatellenie vineyard, bright citrus, subtle herbs, and a graceful mineral edge define its elegant structure, while ripe pear, yellow peach, and delicate salinity enhance its finesse and complexity.
Starmont Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $20
This fresh, zesty wine offers aromas of white nectarine, vanilla cream and white florals. The palate is vibrant with kiwi and grapefruit flavors, balanced by minerality, and a touch of honeysuckle. A creamy mid-palate leads to a bright, citrusy finish.
In this case, my favorite was from California with the Starmont Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023. Though both samples have pleasing aromatic profiles, I think California and its extra sun rays developed beautiful wine here. I’m also a fan of New Zealand fruit forward Sauvignon Blancs, and I think this one was closer to my favorite style.
Regarding the second challenge I tasted these two side to side:
Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2023, $36
This modern, organic Chablis offers on the palate, vibrant notes of lemon, lime, and candied apple, leading to a bright, impeccably balanced finish with refreshing acidity. An exceptional expression of Burgundy’s terroir-driven winemaking, it captures the essence of the region's unique character.
Starmont Vineyards Chardonnay 2022, $22
Fuller in body than the Chablis, but beautifully balanced and expressive. This white features bright stone fruit, lemon zest, apricot, white rose, and lemongrass. A creamy mid-palate from sur lie aging adds richness, while fresh acidity from cool-climate vineyards ensures a crisp, lingering finish.
In this last case my favorite comes from France with the Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2023, I guess Burgundy’s finesse is extremely hard to beat!
My conclusion is that the Old vs. New World framework, though once was very straightforward, is becoming increasingly outdated when it comes to understanding modern wines. Factors like climate change, new winemaking technologies, and evolving global trends have considerably blurred the lines between the two. Is one truly better than the other?, or does it all come down to our personal preference? In most cases this will be the right answer.
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