Old World vs New World Whites

One of the perks of having a wine blog, as you can imagine, is the free samples. Throughout the year, I receive emails offering me bottles of new releases to celebrate the holidays or, in this case, a new season (Spring). We’re in the very heart of Spring right now, and chances are many of us are already gravitating toward whites rather than reds. So when I came across this selection I’m about to recommend at the end, I just had to say yes to the offer and thought about taking on a fun challenge, how about:

Old World vs. New World Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. Who will reign supreme?

But first, a clarification, when we talk about Old World and New World wines, what do we mean?

Geographically speaking, "Old World" refers to the traditional wine-producing countries in Europe — France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Greece, and so on. These countries have centuries of winemaking experience. On the other hand, the "New World" includes countries where wine production began relatively recently (since the 1960s) like the United States (California, Oregon, Washington, New York), Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay. 

These terms also refer to wine styles, and how it is influenced by climate, in other words  how alcohol, body, fruitiness, acidity, sweetness, and tannins differ. Historically, Old World wines were easy to distinguish because coming from cooler climates, they used to have low to medium alcohol, light to medium bodies, and high acidity. They often displayed earthy aromas like herbs, stones, spices and minerality. These characteristics were due to less than ideal vintages (less sun), but also to higher fermentation temperatures and less skin maceration during the winemaking process. They are also labeled by the name of the appellation and not by the grape variety (except in Alsace and Germany).

In contrast, New World wines typically benefited from sunnier climates, resulting in riper fruit and therefore, wines with higher alcohol levels, fuller bodies, lower acidity, and more intense fruit aromas. Fermentations took place at cooler temperatures to preserve their fruity profile and in some cases very floral aromas, and when oak aging occurred it provided noticeable flavors such as vanilla, coconut or butterscotch. They are usually labeled by the grape variety.

The problem is that these differences that were once so clear, are becoming less and less distinct, especially as climate change has warmed up regions across the globe, including those in the Old World. This has affected their styles, yielding full body wines and higher and higher alcohol levels. And at the same time new world producers are walking away from their riper styles in search for higher acidity and elegance, and less alcohol, in an attempt to produce fresher and vibrant wines. 

So, the time to taste has arrived! It’s France vs the US. Who will be the winner?

Joseph Mellot Sancerre “La Chatellenie” 2023, $43

This refined Sancerre comes from the esteemed 55-acre La Chatellenie vineyard, bright citrus, subtle herbs, and a graceful mineral edge define its elegant structure, while ripe pear, yellow peach, and delicate salinity enhance its finesse and complexity.

Starmont Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $20

This fresh, zesty wine offers aromas of white nectarine, vanilla cream and white florals. The palate is vibrant with kiwi and grapefruit flavors, balanced by minerality, and a touch of honeysuckle. A creamy mid-palate leads to a bright, citrusy finish.

In this case, my favorite was from California with the Starmont Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023. Though both samples have pleasing aromatic profiles, I think California and its extra sun rays developed beautiful wine here. I’m also a fan of New Zealand fruit forward Sauvignon Blancs, and I think this one was closer to my favorite style.

Regarding the second challenge I tasted these two side to side:

Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2023,  $36

This modern, organic Chablis offers on the palate, vibrant notes of lemon, lime, and candied apple, leading to a bright, impeccably balanced finish with refreshing acidity. An exceptional expression of Burgundy’s terroir-driven winemaking, it captures the essence of the region's unique character.

Starmont Vineyards Chardonnay 2022, $22

Fuller in body than the Chablis, but beautifully balanced and expressive. This white features bright stone fruit, lemon zest, apricot, white rose, and lemongrass. A creamy mid-palate from sur lie aging adds richness, while fresh acidity from cool-climate vineyards ensures a crisp, lingering finish.

 

In this last case my favorite comes from France with the Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2023, I guess Burgundy’s finesse is extremely hard to beat!

My conclusion is that the Old vs. New World framework, though once was very straightforward, is becoming increasingly outdated when it comes to understanding modern wines. Factors like climate change, new winemaking technologies, and evolving global trends have considerably blurred the lines between the two.  Is one truly better than the other?, or does it all come down to our personal preference? In most cases this will be the right answer.

I encourage you to try these beautiful wines and to let me know your thoughts!  Until next one, cheers! Silvina.

#oldvsnewworldwines #oldworldwines #newworldwines #chardonnay #sauvignonblanc #thoughtsoflawina #drinkupamerica

Botrytis Cinerea Explained

What is Botrytis Cinerea?

Botrytis Cinerea, also known as noble rot, is a fascinating fungus and produces one of nature’s most delicious accidents. It develops when grapes remain on the vine longer than expected, and are exposed to the perfect combination of high humidity and morning mists from nearby bodies of water. This creates an ideal environment for noble rot to thrive, spreading its spores and transforming the grapes in a unique way.

Faced with this peculiar sight—grapes shriveled like raisins, covered in a fine black fuzz— (see pic below). Winemakers had a choice: discard the entire vintage or embrace the magic. The answer was to turn these funny-looking grapes into something extraordinary: a luscious, intensely sweet wine unlike any other.

So the fungus impacts the grapes by drawing out all of their water, practically dehydrating them, while at the same time, it concentrates their sugars and alters their acid composition. This transformation, however, doesn't occur evenly across all the berries. In most cases, the process unfolds over several days or even weeks.

As a result, harvesters must meticulously hand-pick the botrytized affected grapes in multiple passes through the vineyard—a time-consuming and labor-intensive task. Once the perfectly affected grapes are harvested, pressing them releases an exceptionally sweet juice that ferments at a very slow pace due to its high sugar content. As fermentation progresses, the yeast eventually dies off at around 15% alcohol, leaving behind a luxurious wine with 80 to 160 grams of residual sugar per liter—a hallmark of its decadence.

Ideal conditions for producing Botrytis-affected wines exist in select regions around the world. Notable examples include Bordeaux appellations such as Sauternes, Loupiac, Cadillac, and Barsac. In the Loire Valley, appellations like Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, and Coteaux du Layon are known for these unique wines.

Beyond France, Hungarian Tokaji stands as a legendary example of noble rot wines. Alsace Sélection de Grains Nobles, as well as the German and Austrian classifications of Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, also showcase the magic of this natural phenomenon.

The grape varieties used for Botrytis-affected wines vary by region. In Bordeaux, Sémillon dominates, while Chenin Blanc is the star in the Loire Valley. Furmint is the primary grape in Tokaji, whereas Alsace relies on Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat. In Germany and Austria, winemakers craft these exceptional wines using Riesling or Welschriesling.

Stylistically, these exquisite dessert wines are defined by their luscious texture, vibrant acidity that balances their sweetness, and medium-plus to high alcohol content. On the nose, they exude captivating aromas of dried tropical fruits such as apricot, quince, pineapple, mango, orange peel, and coconut. These are complemented by delicate floral notes of honeysuckle—a contribution from the noble rot—along with enticing hints of lanolin, vanilla, caramel, saffron, and ginger.

Given the intensive labor involved in their production, these wines tend to be pricey, with quality samples starting at $75+ per bottle, less if you buy half bottles.

My wine recommendation:

The wine I'm recommending today is not only the best wine of Sauternes, but also one of the best dessert wines in the world! Besides this, Château D’ Yquem was the only winery classified as 1st growth in the Bordeaux 1855 wine classification.

Château D’ Yquem 2017 $427 (per bottle)

A true collector’s item, this extraordinary white wine demands an average of six meticulous vineyard passes to harvest only the finest botrytized fruit. With exceptionally low yields of just 9 hectoliters per hectare, Château d’Yquem undergoes four gentle pressings to extract its intensely concentrated juice. The wine is then fully fermented in new French oak barrels and aged for an additional 26 months, ensuring its complexity and depth.

This remarkable sample boasts aromas of dried apricot and caramelized quince, elegantly intertwined with notes of honey and marzipan. Full-bodied and exquisitely balanced, it delivers a long, vibrant finish, showcasing the perfect harmony of sweetness, acidity, and pure fruit expression. 

An unparalleled treat to savor and enjoy at least once in a lifetime. Cheers! Silvina

#thoughtsoflawina #bortrytiscinerea #sauternes #winewednesday #drinkupamerica #sweetwines #dessertwines

The effects of the Humboldt current in Chilean wines

The Humboldt Current, a massive and frigid oceanic flow, moves along the west coast of South America, profoundly influencing the climate of Chilean vineyards. Originating near Antarctica, it maintains temperatures between 8°C and 11°C (46°F to 52°F), creating a stark contrast with the warmer tropical waters in the north. This temperature gradient plays a crucial role in regulating coastal climates, mitigating extreme heat and fostering cool, stable conditions. Additionally, the current sustains some of the world’s most productive marine ecosystems, particularly along the coasts of Chile and Peru, where its nutrient-rich waters support thriving fisheries and abundant marine life.

Without it, Chile’s vineyards—situated at a southern latitude of 33º—would produce entirely different styles of wine. Its cooling influence is the key factor enabling coastal Chile to craft wines celebrated for their elegance and freshness. In fact, Humboldt’s impact creates climatic conditions remarkably similar to those of Dijon in Burgundy or Reims in Champagne, making it ideal for cultivating cool-climate varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The current also condenses humidity into a thick morning fog, which lingers in the coastal vineyards until nearly 2pm. As the fog retreats, it allows for a slow and extended ripening process under the sun. This phenomenon mirrors the conditions found in Sonoma and Napa, where the fog protects grapes from sunburn, maintains high humidity to reduce vine stress during summer and droughts, and promotes gradual ripening. This extended ripening period enhances flavor development, intensifies aromatics, and naturally regulates yields by producing smaller berries and clusters packed with concentrated flavors.

Beyond Humboldt, the diverse soils and dramatic topography of Chilean vineyards further shape wine profiles. Unlike flat terrains, Chile’s vineyards are interwoven with two north-south mountain ranges—the Coastal Range (Cordillera de la Costa) and the Andes—creating valleys and microclimates where the influence of the Humboldt Current varies. In regions where these ranges are low or absent, Humboldt’s cooling effect is more pronounced, generating distinct weather patterns even within the same vineyard. This natural variation results in wines with different flavor profiles that maintain excellent acidity, yielding wines that are crisp, vibrant, and full of character.

While other oceanic currents influence vineyards worldwide, the Humboldt Current stands out as one of the longest, coldest, and most impactful. Its profound cooling effect shapes the unique character of Chile’s coastal vineyards primarily located in Chile’s renowned Limarí, Leyda (coolest), and Casablanca valleys.

Below is a fine selection of wines affected by Humboldt. As you know from reading my blog, I’m an acidity lover, so I truly appreciate this style of wine. That said, the Torres Chardonnay and the Terranoble Pinot Noir stand out for their exceptional elegance. Their gracefulness is a result of the fog inversion and the cooling influence of the Humboldt Current, which works in harmony with the sunny conditions and the unique limestone or granitic soils. Together, they impart distinct mineral accents that elevate these wines to another level.

Miguel Torres Cordillera de Los Andes Chardonnay 2023, $20

A smooth, creamy palate graces this delightful Chardonnay, with crisp green apple, fresh grass, and zesty lime leading the way. The wine is balanced by vibrant acidity, which is beautifully complemented by a chalky minerality—a signature of the calcareous limestone soils of the Limarí Valley.

Floresta Chardonnay 2021, $20

Delicate white flowers mingle with vibrant pear and white peach notes. The palate is rich and textured, enhanced by extended aging on lees, adding depth and complexity. Sourced from a vineyard at the edge of the fog inversion effect, this wine reflects both elegance and a distinct sense of place.

Chardonnay Montes Alpha 2020, $24

Aromas of ripe papaya, banana, and pink grapefruit lead the way, complemented by subtle toasted vanilla from oak aging. The palate is rich and opulent, with a luscious body and a lingering, velvety finish.

Terranoble Pinot Noir 2023, $15

A juicy, red-fruited expression showcasing bright strawberry and tart sour cherry, layered with herbal and earthy undertones. Vibrant acidity and well-integrated tannins create a harmonious balance, while mineral accents add depth to its highly aromatic profile.

Boya Pinot Noir 2020, $20

Lush raspberries and wild berries intertwine with delicate rose petals and fragrant rosemary notes. This silky, expressive red boasts soft tannins and fresh acidity, delivering elegance and vibrancy in every sip.

Amelia Pinot Noir 2022, $55

A beautifully balanced red, where chalky minerality interlaces with vibrant notes of sour red cherry and delicate black tea leaves. The wine is powerful, yet maintains a refined elegance, with lively acidity supporting its structure. Subtle oak nuances emerge from 12 months of barrel aging, adding a layer of complexity without overshadowing its natural finesse.

Until next one, Cheers! Silvina

#thoughtsoflawina #winesofchile #humboldtcurrent #coolclimatewines #pinotnoir #chardonnay.

A special Thanks to CPalate and Wines of Chile for providing these samples and organizing this very instructive seminar. At the time of publishing this I heard that Jane and Kate are retiring, I wish them the very best on her future endeavours, thank you for your support all of these years!

Three Wonderful Choices for Valentine's Day!

No matter how you decide to celebrate February 14th—whether it's a romantic dinner with your special someone or a casual get-together with your closest friends—make sure to raise a glass (or two) of wine. After all, if you're anything like me, wine always tastes better when shared with the people who mean the most to you. With that in mind, here are three hand picked outstanding selections that will help create unforgettable memories with your loved ones.

The La Rioja Alta, S.A. 2020 Viña Alberdi Reserva is a superb choice for those in search of a medium-bodied yet elegant and vibrant red. Made from 100% Tempranillo grapes, it is aged for two years in a blend of new and old American oak casks. On the nose, this wine reveals a captivating bouquet of red fruits—raspberries, cranberries, and ripe cherries—blended with delicate notes of vanilla, toffee, and roasted espresso beans from oak aging. Its lively acidity and silky tannins make it an ideal companion for roasted duck, grilled chicken, or pasta dishes. And at only $25, it is a fantastic value.

For those looking for a lush red, DiamAndes de Uco Grande Reserve 2019 is a powerbomb from Mendoza, Argentina, crafted from 75% Malbec and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon organic grapes, being  aged for 18 months in French oak. This richly structured red offers an alluring medley of dark fruits—plums, black cherries, and cassis—enhanced by smoky oak and a subtle hint of fresh herbs. This red is complex, yet captivating, finishing with delicious mineral notes and remarkable depth, it is an ideal match for juicy steak or prime rib. $45

And finally, I saved the best for last, the Lustau 30-Year-Old VORS Cream, NV is the perfect way to end any meal and a super fine pairing for Valentine’s chocolates. This sherry is a remarkable blend of 75% Oloroso and 25% Pedro Ximénez, that have been aged for over 30 years in their own solera system, yielding a complex and exotic fortified wine. This incredible sample offers the classic aromas of Oloroso—caramel, walnuts, and coffee, and Pedro Ximénez’ delightful layers of figs, raisins, and molasses. Simply delicious! $124

As always, I want to wish all of you a very Happy Valentine’s Day! Cheers! Silvina

#valentine’sday #valentine’sdaywines #sherry #malbec #rioja

Wine Cellaring and Collecting

Let's face it, most people buy wine to drink and enjoy right away. However, there’s a smaller segment of wine enthusiasts who purchase wines with the intention of cellaring them for the future. These collectors often do so for two main reasons: they want to enjoy the wine at its peak, or they buy wines as an investment.

When buying wines to cellar, the intention is to allow them to evolve and reach their optimal drinking window, often many years after their purchase. Certain wines, especially reds like Bordeaux, Barolo, or Rioja, are known for their aging potential. Over time, the flavors and textures of the wines mature, becoming more complex and nuanced, offering an experience that is different from drinking them when they are young.

On the other hand, some collectors view wine more as an investment. These individuals purchase wines that they believe will appreciate in value over time. Much like stocks or mutual funds, wine can be seen as an asset, with certain bottles or vintages expected to fetch high prices in the future.

Whether you’re cellaring wine to enjoy its evolution or investing in bottles that could increase in value, wine collecting has become both a hobby and a potential financial strategy for many. Unfortunately, the path of wine collecting/cellaring is not cheap, for starters you need to have space, where to put the wines, where wines will be kept at a constant temperature (ideally at 55º F), humidity and without vibrations. Some people build cellars in their homes, others buy portable cellars (like the Eurocave), or rent wine lockers. Whatever you choose, storing wine costs money that needs to be added to your final estimate.

Keep in mind that as a wine ages, particularly red wines with tannins and structure, it undergoes various transformations. Initially, the wine may be tight, with pronounced tannins and bright fruit flavors. Over time, these tannins soften, and the wine becomes rounder and smoother, its mouthfeel more integrated and balanced. The fruit aromas that are prominent in the wine’s youth, such as fresh berries or citrus, begin to fade and evolve into more complex, secondary aromas. These can include descriptors such as truffles, leather, meat, forest floor, and earthy notes. These changes occur as the wine’s chemical compounds continue to interact, and over time, the tannins polymerize (bond together), making them feel softer, while acidity and fruit flavors recede, making room for more savory, complex aromas and flavors. This shift is why many wines, especially reds, are best enjoyed after they've had some time in the cellar.

In essence, reductive aging allows wines to develop a whole new spectrum of flavors and textures, moving away from the fresh fruitiness of their youth and transitioning into something much deeper, richer, and often more complex. For wine enthusiasts and collectors, this transformation is one of the joys of aging wines—experiencing the evolution of a bottle over time as it matures into something unique.

I have a confession to make, one of my best wine experiences was during a Burgundy vertical tasting seminar organized by Wine Spectator. I basically tasted 10 different vintages of the same wine from young to old, which allowed me to see to see how the same wine had evolved in the last 20 years. It was mind blowing!  Smelling and tasting raspberry and red cherry aromas on the young pinot noirs and then seeing how those aromas changed to mushroom, truffles, forest floor and animal must, in the old wines. It was a completely different experience!, and though the wines were delicious when young and highly drinkable, they were much better when they were old.

To cellar wine successfully, a few key elements are needed: acidity, fruit concentration, tannins, and sometimes sugar. While not all of these elements are necessary in every wine, they help ensure the wine will age well and improve over time. For red wines, the primary factors that make a wine suitable for aging are fruit concentration and tannins. Tannins, in particular, play a crucial role in the aging process. When a red wine is young, its tannins can be quite astringent, giving the wine a harsh, puckering feeling. With time, however, the tannins undergo polymerization, where they bond together, softening and making the wine smoother and more drinkable. As the tannins soften, the wine’s fruit flavors can evolve as well, often becoming more integrated and complex. Examples of red wines that improve with age include Barolo, Barbaresco, Bordeaux, high-end California Cabernet Sauvignon, and Vintage Port. These wines are often more difficult to enjoy in their youth because of their high tannin levels, but they evolve into more harmonious, round, and complex wines with time.

For white wines, aging depends more on acidity and sugar levels. Wines like Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) Riesling are excellent examples of white wines that age well because of their high sugar and acidity content. Over time, the wine’s youthful fruity aromas will evolve into more complex, richer flavors such as marzipan, quince, honey, and dry apricot. While some of these notes may be present in the wine when it is young, they will develop and intensify significantly as the wine ages, creating a more layered and complex drinking experience.

If you plan to cellar wines, you need to do some planning, besides finding the space and organizing your collection, you need to decide how much you will invest. My advice is to buy several bottles of the same wine, and reserve some to drink now and some to drink in the future.  And taste it and re-taste it to see how it evolves. Timing a wine’s peak is not always easy, sometimes you wait for too long to find out a wine is on decline (it happened to me a few times) or you open them too soon and when they are not ready.

Always follow the critics, they normally let you know if you should keep or hold a wine and for how long. Vintages here are important, especially if you are cellaring  as an investment, as an excellent vintage will fetch higher prices. Prices vary by brands too, high demand of limited production/boutique wines will push prices up. Provenance of the wines is also very important, so do your research, you are after all investing a lot of money here and there are plenty of counterfeiters out there. Don't forget to keep records and documents. It’s always safer to buy directly from the wineries, taking advantage of wine clubs for example and sales en primeur or wine futures (while the wine is aging at the winery before release). Some hot items, though, will only be available in  live auctions, like those that happen in the US, Hong Kong and the UK, but also online at the following wine houses: Morrell's, Zachy's, Christie's, Sotheby's, etc.

So, who are the blue chips of the wine world? I reviewed some of the offerings in recent catalogs and included some brands for your reference.

Whites: Burgundy Grand Crus from: Comte Lafon, Domaine Leflaive  

German Rieslings: from Egon Muller, R Weil, JJ Prum.

Light Reds: Burgundy Grand Crus from: Domaine de La Romanee Conti, Leroy, Ponsot, Ramonet, Armand Rousseau. 

Big Reds: Bordeaux Left Bank (from 1st Growths: Lafite, Mouton, Margaux, Haut Brion, Latour) and Right bank: from Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Le Pin, Angelus.

California Cabernet Sauvignon: from Harlan,Schrader, Screaming Eagle (most expensive wine sold in auction), Ridge, Bryant Family.

Brunello di Montalcino (Biondi Santi, Soldera, Casanova di Neri),

Hermitage and Cote Rotie (E Guigal La Turque,La Mouline,) Jaboulet La Chapelle, etc.

Ribera del Duero: from Vega Sicilia, Pingus

Australia: from Penfolds Grange, Torbreck Shiraz

Super Tuscans: from Solaia and Tignanello, Sassicaia, Tenuta Ornellaia. 

Barolo and Barbaresco: from Conterno, Giacosa, Gaja. 

Dessert Wines: Vintage Port (Dow's, Graham, Quinta do Noval, etc) and Sauternes (Chateau d'Yquem)

Wow!, look at the prices some of these coveted wines fetched in past auctions:

Chateau D’Yquem 1811 $117,000 (for 1 bottle)

Château Lafite Rothschild 1869 $230,000 (for a lot of 3 bottles)

Armand Rousseau Chambertin 2005 $43,750 (for a 6 bottle case)

I guess we will all need to be billionaires to buy some of these!

Until next one. Cheers! Silvina.

#thoughtsoflawina #winecellaring #winecollecting