Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Climate and Wine Styles

Climate is one of  the most important factors influencing wine style. It's important to the wine producer, as it will determine the size of the crop and its quality, the raw materials for crafting wines. Similarly, it’s also important to the wine drinker/consumer, as climate will determine the style of the wine, influencing preferences and guiding expectations when exploring unfamiliar wine regions.

Fundamentally, the quality of wine hinges on ripe fruit. Sunlight plays a pivotal role in grape ripening during the growing season. Vines, like all plants, require sunlight, water, and a good soil to thrive. A concept encapsulated in the French concept of “Terroir”. Terroir is the marriage of grape variety, climate and soil and how these three elements combine and relate among each other. Excessive sunlight results in overripe grapes with stewed fruit flavors, ripe tannins, low acidity, high alcohol and fuller bodies in wine. On the contrary, insufficient sun yields underripe fruit with green herbaceous notes, green tannins, high acidity, low alcohol and lighter bodies in wine. Winegrowers navigate between these two extremes to achieve the balance needed to produce their desired wine styles.  


Understanding and learning about climate is crucial for consumers, as it provides insights into any wine’s style. This is a topic that fascinated me from the beginning, and that it was kind of an Eureka moment for me. I first read about this topic, from MS Andrea Robinson, in her book “Great Wine Made Simple”.  In one of her chapters, Andrea talked about the flavor map of the wine world, which made total sense to me. She explained that grapes can grow on delimited areas, specifically those located between 30º and 50º latitude north and south of the equator and then proceeded to divide wine regions in three groups, cool zones which will be those farthest away from the equator, warm zones the ones closest to the equator, and moderate zones in the happy middle. 


Stylistically, each zone will produce a different style of wine, with specific aromatics and personality and as follows:


Cool Climate wines are usually subtle and exhibit high acidity, light to medium bodies, lower to medium alcohol, zero tannins or balanced tannins. Their fresh fruit could be intense or not depending on the grape variety. Their aromas and flavors tend to be lean and tart; for whites, aromas and flavors of apples, pears, lime, lemon, and grapefruit.  Along with vegetal nuances such as asparagus, green pepper or tomato leaf. While reds, feature red fruits such as cranberry, strawberry, red cherry and raspberry and herbal notes such as green pepper and mint.


Moderate Climate wines offer more substance than those from the first group, balancing acidity and alcohol, with medium to full bodies, some oak notes and medium to heavy tannins. The increased sunlight in these regions results in ripe, juicy whites with aromas of apricots, peaches and melons. And reds with flavors of black fruits like cherries, plums and blackberries.

Warm Climate Wines are usually luscious and bolder, characterized by overripe and cooked fruit flavors, big bodies, high alcohol content and low acidity levels. Though this can be altered by the winemaker adding tartaric acid. Tannins range from medium to heavy depending on the grape variety and or winemaking intent. Warm climate wines are usually round and big, whites exuding very tropical notes of mango, pineapple, papaya, banana, guava and passion fruit. While reds offer aromas and flavors of cooked black or raisined fruits, including figs, prunes, raisins, stewed blackberries, etc. 

But latitude alone does not solely determine climate, since mesoclimate (regional climate) and  microclimate (the climate in the canopy or row of vines) may also play a pivotal role. It’s not unusual to see wines made from grapes from the same plot that taste completely different, because of their different microclimates. Factors influencing ripeness in grapes include solar radiation and heat accumulation. Solar radiation is key to an optimal photosynthesis process, and important from bloom to harvest. Specific temperatures are required so that certain varieties can develop their color, flavor, aromas, polyphenols and tannins. 

In normal times, vines rest during the winter with their cycle kicking off when the temperatures reach 50º Fh. This is why frost can be so damaging, lower temperatures than 50º Fh during flowering or setting can seriously affect yields and disrupt the whole process.  


Heat accumulation from the soils reflects heat onto vines, and aids flowering, maturation and ripening. Topography, as well as orientation, are crucial. In cool climates such as Germany’s Mosel, south facing slopes maximize sun exposure. Proximity to large bodies of water moderates temperatures, as rivers reflect sunlight, slightly increasing temperatures sometimes by 1º or 2ºFh.  Oceans, on the other hand, provide cool breezes, refreshing vineyards, as found in Casablanca, (Chile) or Carneros, (California). 

Elevation also influences climate, higher altitude, like in Mendoza and Salta in Argentina can make all the difference, since temperatures go down the higher we go up. No wonder Nicolas Catena experimented planting malbec at different altitudes, always looking to find the ideal spot that will make the most elegant wine.  Local winds play a dual role, reducing excessive humidity, eliminating extra moisture and circulating air, preventing fungal diseases; yet overly strong winds can also shut down photosynthesis as well as break shoots, flowers and fruit.



Grape variety selection aligned with climate and site conditions is paramount, as not all grapes thrive in every climate.  Some of them thrive in cool zones, and don’t do well in warm zones, while others need the hot/ mediterranean climates to fully mature and express themselves. In general most grapes mature within temperatures that go from 55º to 72º Fh. Some varieties require warmth during the day but prefer cool nights, while others do better when it’s warm both during the day and at night.  Cool climates will favor varieties such as  Müller Thurgau, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir (the only red that likes coolness), Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Moderate weather favors varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Sémillon, Tempranillo, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier.  While warm weather varieties usually require extra warmth, such as in the cases of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignane and Zinfandel.

Ultimately, climate variability within a region profoundly impacts wine styles. Burgundy's cooler, less sunny conditions yield a markedly different Pinot Noir compared to sunnier, warmer Carneros. Some grape varieties thrive in cool climates but excel in warm vintages. Thus, beyond regional or local climate, annual weather patterns during the growing season significantly influence wine quality, from rain timing and quantity to temperature fluctuations. The length of the growing season also varies according to climate, for example in moderate zones, it goes from 170 to 190 days, while in warm and hot zones, the growing season is shorter, usually up to 140 days, and in cool zones, is longer, sometimes lasting up to 220 days. 

Before harvest, growers monitor grape acidity and sugar levels closely, adjusting harvest times as needed to maximize flavor concentration while preserving freshness.  In some vineyards, this will require the harvest to start at different times, all to obtain “optimal ripeness” or the best raw material, to make exceptional wines.


Cheers!, Silvina.


#climateandwines #coolclimatewines #warmclimatewines #moderateclimatewines #thoughtsoflawina #WineWednesday #drinkupamerica


Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Old World vs New World Whites

One of the perks of having a wine blog, as you can imagine, is the free samples. Throughout the year, I receive emails offering me bottles of new releases to celebrate the holidays or, in this case, a new season (Spring). We’re in the very heart of Spring right now, and chances are many of us are already gravitating toward whites rather than reds. So when I came across this selection I’m about to recommend at the end, I just had to say yes to the offer and thought about taking on a fun challenge, how about:

Old World vs. New World Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. Who will reign supreme?

But first, a clarification, when we talk about Old World and New World wines, what do we mean?

Geographically speaking, "Old World" refers to the traditional wine-producing countries in Europe — France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Greece, and so on. These countries have centuries of winemaking experience. On the other hand, the "New World" includes countries where wine production began relatively recently (since the 1960s) like the United States (California, Oregon, Washington, New York), Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay. 

These terms also refer to wine styles, and how it is influenced by climate, in other words  how alcohol, body, fruitiness, acidity, sweetness, and tannins differ. Historically, Old World wines were easy to distinguish because coming from cooler climates, they used to have low to medium alcohol, light to medium bodies, and high acidity. They often displayed earthy aromas like herbs, stones, spices and minerality. These characteristics were due to less than ideal vintages (less sun), but also to higher fermentation temperatures and less skin maceration during the winemaking process. They are also labeled by the name of the appellation and not by the grape variety (except in Alsace and Germany).

In contrast, New World wines typically benefited from sunnier climates, resulting in riper fruit and therefore, wines with higher alcohol levels, fuller bodies, lower acidity, and more intense fruit aromas. Fermentations took place at cooler temperatures to preserve their fruity profile and in some cases very floral aromas, and when oak aging occurred it provided noticeable flavors such as vanilla, coconut or butterscotch. They are usually labeled by the grape variety.

The problem is that these differences that were once so clear, are becoming less and less distinct, especially as climate change has warmed up regions across the globe, including those in the Old World. This has affected their styles, yielding full body wines and higher and higher alcohol levels. And at the same time new world producers are walking away from their riper styles in search for higher acidity and elegance, and less alcohol, in an attempt to produce fresher and vibrant wines. 

So, the time to taste has arrived! It’s France vs the US. Who will be the winner?

Joseph Mellot Sancerre “La Chatellenie” 2023, $43

This refined Sancerre comes from the esteemed 55-acre La Chatellenie vineyard, bright citrus, subtle herbs, and a graceful mineral edge define its elegant structure, while ripe pear, yellow peach, and delicate salinity enhance its finesse and complexity.


Starmont Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $20


This fresh, zesty wine offers aromas of white nectarine, vanilla cream and white florals. The palate is vibrant with kiwi and grapefruit flavors, balanced by minerality, and a touch of honeysuckle. A creamy mid-palate leads to a bright, citrusy finish.


In this case, my favorite was from California with the Starmont Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023. Though both samples have pleasing aromatic profiles, I think California and its extra sun rays developed beautiful wine here. I’m also a fan of New Zealand fruit forward Sauvignon Blancs, and I think this one was closer to my favorite style.


Regarding the second challenge I tasted these two side to side:


Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2023,  $36


This modern, organic Chablis offers on the palate, vibrant notes of lemon, lime, and candied apple, leading to a bright, impeccably balanced finish with refreshing acidity. An exceptional expression of Burgundy’s terroir-driven winemaking, it captures the essence of the region's unique character.


Starmont Vineyards Chardonnay 2022, $22


Fuller in body than the Chablis, but beautifully balanced and expressive. This white features bright stone fruit, lemon zest, apricot, white rose, and lemongrass. A creamy mid-palate from sur lie aging adds richness, while fresh acidity from cool-climate vineyards ensures a crisp, lingering finish.

 

In this last case my favorite comes from France with the Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2023, I guess Burgundy’s finesse is extremely hard to beat!


My conclusion is that the Old vs. New World framework, though once was very straightforward, is becoming increasingly outdated when it comes to understanding modern wines. Factors like climate change, new winemaking technologies, and evolving global trends have considerably blurred the lines between the two.  Is one truly better than the other?, or does it all come down to our personal preference? In most cases this will be the right answer.
I encourage you to try these beautiful wines and to let me know your thoughts!  Until next one, cheers! Silvina.

#oldvsnewworldwines #oldworldwines #newworldwines #chardonnay #sauvignonblanc #thoughtsoflawina #drinkupamerica

Tuesday, April 8, 2025

Botrytis Cinerea Explained

What is Botrytis Cinerea?

Botrytis Cinerea, also known as noble rot, is a fascinating fungus and produces one of nature’s most delicious accidents. It develops when grapes remain on the vine longer than expected, and are exposed to the perfect combination of high humidity and morning mists from nearby bodies of water. This creates an ideal environment for noble rot to thrive, spreading its spores and transforming the grapes in a unique way.

Faced with this peculiar sight—grapes shriveled like raisins, covered in a fine black fuzz— (see pic below). Winemakers had a choice: discard the entire vintage or embrace the magic. The answer was to turn these funny-looking grapes into something extraordinary: a luscious, intensely sweet wine unlike any other.

So the fungus impacts the grapes by drawing out all of their water, practically dehydrating them, while at the same time, it concentrates their sugars and alters their acid composition. This transformation, however, doesn't occur evenly across all the berries. In most cases, the process unfolds over several days or even weeks.

As a result, harvesters must meticulously hand-pick the botrytized affected grapes in multiple passes through the vineyard—a time-consuming and labor-intensive task. Once the perfectly affected grapes are harvested, pressing them releases an exceptionally sweet juice that ferments at a very slow pace due to its high sugar content. As fermentation progresses, the yeast eventually dies off at around 15% alcohol, leaving behind a luxurious wine with 80 to 160 grams of residual sugar per liter—a hallmark of its decadence.

Ideal conditions for producing Botrytis-affected wines exist in select regions around the world. Notable examples include Bordeaux appellations such as Sauternes, Loupiac, Cadillac, and Barsac. In the Loire Valley, appellations like Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, and Coteaux du Layon are known for these unique wines.

Beyond France, Hungarian Tokaji stands as a legendary example of noble rot wines. Alsace Sélection de Grains Nobles, as well as the German and Austrian classifications of Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, also showcase the magic of this natural phenomenon.

The grape varieties used for Botrytis-affected wines vary by region. In Bordeaux, Sémillon dominates, while Chenin Blanc is the star in the Loire Valley. Furmint is the primary grape in Tokaji, whereas Alsace relies on Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat. In Germany and Austria, winemakers craft these exceptional wines using Riesling or Welschriesling.

Stylistically, these exquisite dessert wines are defined by their luscious texture, vibrant acidity that balances their sweetness, and medium-plus to high alcohol content. On the nose, they exude captivating aromas of dried tropical fruits such as apricot, quince, pineapple, mango, orange peel, and coconut. These are complemented by delicate floral notes of honeysuckle—a contribution from the noble rot—along with enticing hints of lanolin, vanilla, caramel, saffron, and ginger.

Given the intensive labor involved in their production, these wines tend to be pricey, with quality samples starting at $75+ per bottle, less if you buy half bottles.

My wine recommendation:

The wine I'm recommending today is not only the best wine of Sauternes, but also one of the best dessert wines in the world! Besides this, Château D’ Yquem was the only winery classified as 1st growth in the Bordeaux 1855 wine classification.

Château D’ Yquem 2017 $427 (per bottle)

A true collector’s item, this extraordinary white wine demands an average of six meticulous vineyard passes to harvest only the finest botrytized fruit. With exceptionally low yields of just 9 hectoliters per hectare, Château d’Yquem undergoes four gentle pressings to extract its intensely concentrated juice. The wine is then fully fermented in new French oak barrels and aged for an additional 26 months, ensuring its complexity and depth.

This remarkable sample boasts aromas of dried apricot and caramelized quince, elegantly intertwined with notes of honey and marzipan. Full-bodied and exquisitely balanced, it delivers a long, vibrant finish, showcasing the perfect harmony of sweetness, acidity, and pure fruit expression. 

An unparalleled treat to savor and enjoy at least once in a lifetime. Cheers! Silvina

#thoughtsoflawina #bortrytiscinerea #sauternes #winewednesday #drinkupamerica #sweetwines #dessertwines

Tuesday, March 11, 2025

The effects of the Humboldt current in Chilean wines

The Humboldt Current, a massive and frigid oceanic flow, moves along the west coast of South America, profoundly influencing the climate of Chilean vineyards. Originating near Antarctica, it maintains temperatures between 8°C and 11°C (46°F to 52°F), creating a stark contrast with the warmer tropical waters in the north. This temperature gradient plays a crucial role in regulating coastal climates, mitigating extreme heat and fostering cool, stable conditions. Additionally, the current sustains some of the world’s most productive marine ecosystems, particularly along the coasts of Chile and Peru, where its nutrient-rich waters support thriving fisheries and abundant marine life.

Without it, Chile’s vineyards—situated at a southern latitude of 33º—would produce entirely different styles of wine. Its cooling influence is the key factor enabling coastal Chile to craft wines celebrated for their elegance and freshness. In fact, Humboldt’s impact creates climatic conditions remarkably similar to those of Dijon in Burgundy or Reims in Champagne, making it ideal for cultivating cool-climate varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The current also condenses humidity into a thick morning fog, which lingers in the coastal vineyards until nearly 2pm. As the fog retreats, it allows for a slow and extended ripening process under the sun. This phenomenon mirrors the conditions found in Sonoma and Napa, where the fog protects grapes from sunburn, maintains high humidity to reduce vine stress during summer and droughts, and promotes gradual ripening. This extended ripening period enhances flavor development, intensifies aromatics, and naturally regulates yields by producing smaller berries and clusters packed with concentrated flavors.

Beyond Humboldt, the diverse soils and dramatic topography of Chilean vineyards further shape wine profiles. Unlike flat terrains, Chile’s vineyards are interwoven with two north-south mountain ranges—the Coastal Range (Cordillera de la Costa) and the Andes—creating valleys and microclimates where the influence of the Humboldt Current varies. In regions where these ranges are low or absent, Humboldt’s cooling effect is more pronounced, generating distinct weather patterns even within the same vineyard. This natural variation results in wines with different flavor profiles that maintain excellent acidity, yielding wines that are crisp, vibrant, and full of character.

While other oceanic currents influence vineyards worldwide, the Humboldt Current stands out as one of the longest, coldest, and most impactful. Its profound cooling effect shapes the unique character of Chile’s coastal vineyards primarily located in Chile’s renowned Limarí, Leyda (coolest), and Casablanca valleys.

Below is a fine selection of wines affected by Humboldt. As you know from reading my blog, I’m an acidity lover, so I truly appreciate this style of wine. That said, the Torres Chardonnay and the Terranoble Pinot Noir stand out for their exceptional elegance. Their gracefulness is a result of the fog inversion and the cooling influence of the Humboldt Current, which works in harmony with the sunny conditions and the unique limestone or granitic soils. Together, they impart distinct mineral accents that elevate these wines to another level.

Miguel Torres Cordillera de Los Andes Chardonnay 2023, $20

A smooth, creamy palate graces this delightful Chardonnay, with crisp green apple, fresh grass, and zesty lime leading the way. The wine is balanced by vibrant acidity, which is beautifully complemented by a chalky minerality—a signature of the calcareous limestone soils of the Limarí Valley.


Floresta Chardonnay 2021, $20

Delicate white flowers mingle with vibrant pear and white peach notes. The palate is rich and textured, enhanced by extended aging on lees, adding depth and complexity. Sourced from a vineyard at the edge of the fog inversion effect, this wine reflects both elegance and a distinct sense of place.


Chardonnay Montes Alpha 2020, $24

Aromas of ripe papaya, banana, and pink grapefruit lead the way, complemented by subtle toasted vanilla from oak aging. The palate is rich and opulent, with a luscious body and a lingering, velvety finish.


Terranoble Pinot Noir 2023, $15

A juicy, red-fruited expression showcasing bright strawberry and tart sour cherry, layered with herbal and earthy undertones. Vibrant acidity and well-integrated tannins create a harmonious balance, while mineral accents add depth to its highly aromatic profile.


Boya Pinot Noir 2020, $20

Lush raspberries and wild berries intertwine with delicate rose petals and fragrant rosemary notes. This silky, expressive red boasts soft tannins and fresh acidity, delivering elegance and vibrancy in every sip.


Amelia Pinot Noir 2022, $55

A beautifully balanced red, where chalky minerality interlaces with vibrant notes of sour red cherry and delicate black tea leaves. The wine is powerful, yet maintains a refined elegance, with lively acidity supporting its structure. Subtle oak nuances emerge from 12 months of barrel aging, adding a layer of complexity without overshadowing its natural finesse.



Until next one, Cheers! Silvina

#thoughtsoflawina #winesofchile #humboldtcurrent #coolclimatewines #pinotnoir #chardonnay.

A special Thanks to CPalate and Wines of Chile for providing these samples and organizing this very instructive seminar. At the time of publishing this I heard that Jane and Kate are retiring, I wish them the very best on her future endeavours, thank you for your support all of these years!

Tuesday, February 11, 2025

Three Wonderful Choices for Valentine's Day!

No matter how you decide to celebrate February 14th—whether it's a romantic dinner with your special someone or a casual get-together with your closest friends—make sure to raise a glass (or two) of wine. After all, if you're anything like me, wine always tastes better when shared with the people who mean the most to you. With that in mind, here are three hand picked outstanding selections that will help create unforgettable memories with your loved ones.

The La Rioja Alta, S.A. 2020 Viña Alberdi Reserva is a superb choice for those in search of a medium-bodied yet elegant and vibrant red. Made from 100% Tempranillo grapes, it is aged for two years in a blend of new and old American oak casks. On the nose, this wine reveals a captivating bouquet of red fruits—raspberries, cranberries, and ripe cherries—blended with delicate notes of vanilla, toffee, and roasted espresso beans from oak aging. Its lively acidity and silky tannins make it an ideal companion for roasted duck, grilled chicken, or pasta dishes. And at only $25, it is a fantastic value.

For those looking for a lush red, DiamAndes de Uco Grande Reserve 2019 is a powerbomb from Mendoza, Argentina, crafted from 75% Malbec and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon organic grapes, being  aged for 18 months in French oak. This richly structured red offers an alluring medley of dark fruits—plums, black cherries, and cassis—enhanced by smoky oak and a subtle hint of fresh herbs. This red is complex, yet captivating, finishing with delicious mineral notes and remarkable depth, it is an ideal match for juicy steak or prime rib. $45

And finally, I saved the best for last, the Lustau 30-Year-Old VORS Cream, NV is the perfect way to end any meal and a super fine pairing for Valentine’s chocolates. This sherry is a remarkable blend of 75% Oloroso and 25% Pedro Ximénez, that have been aged for over 30 years in their own solera system, yielding a complex and exotic fortified wine. This incredible sample offers the classic aromas of Oloroso—caramel, walnuts, and coffee, and Pedro Ximénez’ delightful layers of figs, raisins, and molasses. Simply delicious! $124


As always, I want to wish all of you a very Happy Valentine’s Day! Cheers! Silvina

#valentine’sday #valentine’sdaywines #sherry #malbec #rioja