Madeira

What is Madeira?

Madeira is a fortified wine that has been produced from centuries, and it is also the Portuguese island located 625 miles from Europe, close to Morocco, to the north of the Canary Islands. History tells us that the island of Madeira was discovered in 1419 by Joao Goncalves Zarco, Tristao Vaz Teixeira and Bartolomeu Perestreto. These three captains founded a port (Funchal) on the island so that the ships that were going to the Americas could stop for provisions, and of course among them, wine.

Madeira was very popular in the US and loved by our founding fathers: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams were all Madeira fans, and America’s Declaration of Independence was celebrated with plenty of Madeira, which was very much in fashion during that time.

Now, what makes Madeira wine so special? from a viticulture's point of view, the island seats on a vast volcanic mountain range of basalt soils (made of cooled lava). Only 500 hectares are dedicated to grow vines, a task that is not easy to do, for starters, the island is full of very inclined cliffs, so viticulture can only take place in small plots and by creating terraces by hand, similar to those found in the Douro region (Portugal). Then, the subtropical climate creates many problems, not only it is very hot in the summer, it also rains a lot, thankfully most rain falls in the winter when the vines are dormant.  Humidity creates other problems such as mildew and botrytis bunch rot and this is why most vines are trained in high pergolas so that air can circulate. Then there is the Leste wind, that comes from Africa and that can cover the grapes in sand, raising temperatures to 100 °F for weeks. Viticulture is possible in the island,mostly thanks to altitude with vineyards planted up to 5,900 feet. Regarding vinification, Madeira wines normally start their life as any other wine with a regular fermentation but in the middle of it, alcohol/ brandy is added to halt it; depending when the alcohol is added, there will be more or less residual sugar in the wine, creating styles that can go from dry to rich (sweet). Depending on the amount of alcohol added, Madeira wines can have from 17-22º of alcohol.

There are four noble (indigenous) varieties in Madeira, which are planted according to climate: Sercial makes the driest of all styles is planted in the north, in the coolest vineyards.  Verdelho makes a medium dry style is planted in warmer vineyards but still in the north. Bual (Boal) and Malmsey make the richest (sweet) styles, are planted in the south, in the warmer regions. There’s also a fifth grape: Tinta Negra Mole, used to make entry level wines and Colheita (vintage wines).

Historically, Madeira was not always a fortified wine, the problem was that upon arrival of the wines to their destination (the Americas), they soon deteriorated, so producers realized that the addition of a little bit of spirit was necessary to survive the long sea trip. (Something similar happened with another fortified wine: Port). Later, East Indian Trading shippers saw that the best wines were those that had crossed the equator, it seemed that the extra heat and long distance travel had a very positive effect in the wine, aiding the slow oxidation process that yielded Madeira's typical rancio aromas: caramel, toasted nuts, toffee, brown sugar, molasses, cocoa, dates and spices (cinnamon, ginger and all spice).  These first Madeira wines were known as Vinhos de Roda (because they went around the world). Now, taking the wines back and forth on long sea trips to get these delicious flavors proved to be kind of expensive, and pretty soon producers tried to find ways to replicate this, without the need of taking the wines out of the island.

One way to reproduce this special maturation/oxidation is the use of the estufagem/estufas, which are large vats with heating coils that reach temperatures of up to 131°F, a process that is done slowly to prevent burnt flavors and that usually lasts for 3 months.  The second method used is the Armazems de calor, where wines are aged in large casks in rooms like saunas, where they are kept from 6 months to 1 year.  And then the third method is the Vinhos de Canteiro, this last process is used only for the best wines. Wines are kept in producers' lodges under the heat of the madeiran sun for a minimum of 2 years, but most producers age the wines for much longer, some madeiras can be there for 20 years or more. Whatever method they use, the heating of the wine will cause the slow oxidation and concentration of the aromas of Madeira wines. After the heating process, most wines are often aged in oak barrels.

Madeira styles can be divided according to their sweetness: they could be dry (less than 25 gr of sugar), medium dry, medium sweet, medium rich and rich or sweet (more than 100 gr of residual sugar). Sercials are mostly dry, Verdelhos could be dry or medium dry, Boal tend to be medium sweet and Malmsey are the sweetest wines.  Keep in mind that even the sweetest wines won't be cloying, since all Madeira styles boast their dose of natural acidity that balances their sweetness. All of them will also have high alcohol, they are fortified wines after all! which will give them full bodies and long finishes. Like Ports, Madeiras are blended wines from different vintages and can be divided into several categories,but these below, are the most important: Rainwater Madeiras: these are the entry level wines, wines that could be off dry or medium dry, usually aged for 5 years. They owe this name to wines that were diluted with rain water during trips to the Americas. Then, we have the wines that have an indication of age: these could be 5, 10, 20, 30, 40 or 50 years old. All of them are made of one of the four noble varieties: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal or Malmsey. There’s also the Colheita and Frasqueira/Garrafeira category. These are wines from the same harvest/ vintage that have been aged for 5 years in cask (for Colheita) and 20 years in cask for the Frasqueira. Similar to Sherry, some Madeiras are aged in Soleras. In the Solera system, wines are mixed fractionally, by adding new wines to old ones, blending different vintages.

Because Madeira is an oxidized wine, i.e. is exposed deliberately to oxygen and heat, it is almost indestructible and can last for a long time, even after being opened. Just keep them in a cool and dark spot in your house. Enjoy Sercial and Verdelho slightly chilled, and Boal and Malmsey at room temperature.

My recommended Producers: Blandy’s, Broadbent, Justino's Cossart Gordon, Leacock’s, Miles, Henriques & Henriques, Vinhos Barbeito & Borges.

Thank you so much to Bartholomew Broadbent for providing an outstanding  selection of samples to taste. The winos really loved them!

Because la Wina has a sweet tooth, these 3 were my favorites: all 3 are made with the Canteiro process.

Broadbent Boal 10 Year old, $50

Intensely flavorful,medium sweet Madeira, filled with typical rancio aromas of burned caramel, date and smoke nuts notes.  Showing a vibrant and persistent finish.

Broadbent Malmsey 10 Year old, $50

Focused and powerful, sweet Madeira features toffee, pecan, molasses and chocolate aromas and a mouthwatering finish. 

Broadbent Colheita 1996, $65 (my favorite)

This exotic and succulent 23 year old Madeira shows macerated raisins, dulce de leche, brown sugar and roasted nuts notes. Lively acidity balances the sweet finish. Superb!

Cheers! Silvina.

 

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#WineWednesday  #Madeira  #Thoughtsoflawina #Broadbentwine

Basic Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot

Today we continue learning about red grapes and this time I chose two of the most popular red varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. 
These two raised to fame because they are key components of Bordeaux wines, that had been replicated all over the world. Cabernet Sauvignon is king on the left bank of the river Gironde and Merlot on the right bank. In Bordeaux, they are blended with other grapes (Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc). In the New World we will find some blends, but most often they are made as varietals, in California is easy to find 100% Cabernets, the same thing happens in Australia and Chile. 

Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet is the offspring of two grape varieties: Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. It produces full bodied wines with structure (from tannins) and ageability. It requires warmth to mature and well drained soils. Too much sun will produce overripe wines, and not enough sun, green wines with vegetable notes (green pepper). Maritime climates such as the one in Bordeaux are ideal, but it will be happy anywhere that is warm. It is late ripening and budding and produces its best samples from low yields. Inexpensive versions are usually made from high yields and can be quite austere. It has thick skins and a high ratio of solids to juice,  which will provide color, tannins and concentration. It can withstand high temperature fermentations and long macerations. However, wines to be consumed young will undergo shorter macerations. Cabernet from Europe is usually less fruit forward than New World samples. 

Cabernet’s flavor profile is dominated by black fruits: cassis, black currants, black cherries. After aging in the bottle best samples will show cigar box, tobacco, pencil shavings, mint, eucalyptus notes. It loves oak especially French but also does well when aged in a mix of French and American oak. 
It will produce medium bodied wines at the inexpensive level and big power bombs and the premium label.  Cabernet is so loved by consumers that most producers don’t hesitate to add it to any blend, and since it has so much personality it will always dominate the blend.  
Important locations to remember: Bordeaux appellations where some of the finest wines are made: Pauillac, Margaux, Pessac Leognan. In the US: Napa Valley, Alexander and Sonoma Valleys, Maipo Valley and Aconcagua Valley in Chile, Coonawarra and Margaret River in Australia,Tuscany in Italy (where some of Super Tuscans are made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon) and in the Penedès, Spain. 

Merlot

For many it was always the other Bordeaux grape, though it is first in numbers (Merlot is the most planted red grape in Bordeaux). It was used to soften the structure and angularity of Cabernet Sauvignon and to add body. However, don’t let Merlot fool you, in the right conditions such as in Pomerol and Saint Emilion, it will produce powerbomb wines that are full and ripe with a velvety texture and of course many entry level reds. Merlot is a favorite, for those that prefer less acidity and tannins and more plushness in red wine. 

Merlot likes cooler climates than Cabernet Sauvignon and ripens two to three weeks earlier. It does well in warm climates too, but it can overripe very quickly, and lose acidity, that is why some prefer to harvest earlier than later to make elegant wines.
Originally from Bordeaux, Merlot is the child of Cabernet Franc and Magdeleine Noire des Charentes, in Chile is often confused with Carménère and in California with Cabernet Franc, another Bordeaux grape, that is usually added to Merlot to provide acidity and perfume. 
Two places are good for Merlot: St Emilion and Pomerol where it thrives in cool clay soils, (Pomerol) or in  sand & limestone ones (St Emilion). Clay gives wines with more substance, limestone, wines with more elegance. Best wines will come from lower yields 26-60hl/ha (Bordeaux), but higher yields can be found in the New World: New Zealand, Argentina, California. Merlot is extremely vigorous and requires cropping and canopy management. It also suffers from rot, especially in humid climates.

Most Merlot is made to be drunk young, but the serious wines can be as concentrated and extracted as Cabs and can age up to 25 years. 
Merlot’s flavor profile will show black fruits such as plums, black cherry, prunes, figs, fruitcake. Also spices like cinnamon, cloves, truffles, tobacco, licorice, toasted nuts, chocolate.  In cooler climates: mint and some vegetable notes.
Outside of Bordeaux, good Merlot is produced in Italy (Tuscany, Umbria, Friuli,  the Maremma),the Languedoc, Washington, Long Island, California (Sonoma, Alexander Valley, Dry Creek,etc), Chile (Maipo, Aconcagua, Colchagua) etc. 
Expect more fruit  and high alcohol in samples made in the New World. 

Recommended Cabernet Sauvignon Producers: some of these can be quite pricey! yet I included them so you know the best expressions of each grape.

Bordeaux: Château Haut Brion, Château Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Château Mouton Rothschild,Pichon Longueville, Chateau Palmer, Chateau Lynch Bages.
California: Caymus, Joseph Phelps, Stag’s Leap, Shafer, Harlan, Beaulieu Vineyards, Francis Ford Coppola, Colgin, Dalla Valle, Paul Hobbs, Tor, Robert Mondavi.
Chile: Almaviva, Errazuriz, Concha y Toro, Vina Santa Rita, Haras de Pirque, Clos Apalta Vina Santa Carolina.

Recommended Merlot Producers: 

Bordeaux: Angelus,  Ausone, L’Evangile, Petrus, Chateau Canon, Chateau Pavie, Château Trotanoy.
Italy: Maculan, Castello di Ama,  Avignonesi, Ca Marcanda, Antinori, Famiglia Cotarella,
USA/California: Beringer,  Clos du Bois, Paloma, Raymond, Behrens Family, Duckhorn, Matanzas Creek, Pahlmeyer, 
Chile: Casa Lapostolle,  Cono Sur,  La Rosa, Vina Casablanca, Terramater, Concha y Toro.

These are some Cabernet Sauvignon under $50, that I tasted recently:

The Federalist Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 $20
St Francis Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 $25
Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 $50
The first two were kind of lighter, smoother Cabs, with plenty of fruit, alcohol (though well integrated) and body. Very little tannin, not exactly the muscular, structured wines that I'm used to drink. Yet good value for everyday wines.
The Sequoia Grove showed plenty of complexity with dark berry and mocha notes, big and smooth with a long finish.

For more wine recommendations, you can follow me on Instagram: @Silvinalawina.

#thoughtsoflawina #WineWednesday #CabernetSauvignon&Merlot #Lifeisbetterwithlawina #wine

Wine Critics, Wine Ratings... Should we care?

So let’s talk about Wine Ratings and Critics, and most importantly should you care about them or not? 

Because there’s a sea of wine out there, we definitely need wine ratings, it’s the only way for any Wino to avoid drinking way too much plonk that it is sold. 
I don’t want to be rude to any producer in particular, but let’s face it, as Monsieur Émile Peynaud said “We drink the wine we deserve”, meaning that if we keep buying plonk, we are keeping those producers in business, and we as consumers should give our hard earned money to those that make the wines we like to drink. 

Now, even for wine writers/critics is hard to keep up, that is why they specialize in regions/appellations, some do only Italian wines, others Spanish, some like to try them all, but I don’t think there will be enough time to try all.... So yes, it’s good to follow the experts’ opinions, especially if when we taste the wines they recommend, we end up liking them. Remember tasting is subjective, and things I like, you may not like. 

A few years back when I was working in Public Relations, one of my jobs was to send wines to the Press. I used to send them the new vintages with their information and once every month I also sent sample mailings. My former boss and me used to select wines to promote and chose a topic, like wines for the holidays, wines for the summer, wines for mother’s day, and so I wrote a “pitch letter” to motivate the press to write about the brands we had had selected earlier. The other part of job was to follow the press on twitter, read blogs, articles, magazines,newspapers etc  and gather all the good news, to pass it to the sales force, and hopefully sell more wine. Wine ratings were also uploaded to my former employer's website.

Of course not all the press was important, but there were a few that no producer can live without, since they can make or break a brand. So here the most important, I'm sure you will see them in the store or in your favorite store's website:

Robert Parker, he is the first one I will talk about because he is by far the most influential wine critic in the world, yes his influence goes beyond the US. These days he doesn’t taste as much for his newsletter but teaches very fancy wine classes around the world, especially in China and Japan.  He has people tasting for him, still a Parker review is super important.  His newsletter “The Wine Advocate” that is also available online, comes out every two months, it will cost you around $99 for full access. 

Wine Spectator, one of my favorites, I must confess I subscribe to the magazine and the online version, that will cost you about $60 each, the magazine is also available in digital format via Zinio, Itunes and Google Play. It’s a great source not only of ratings but also winery and winemaker profiles, and a lot of travel information, if you like me, enjoy visiting wineries during your vacation. I also like to play the what am I tasting game? You read a tasting note and need to guess the grape, region and vintage of the wine (it’s easy, because they give you the options in a multiple choice format).

Vinous.com, this is the website of Antonio Galloni (he previously used to work with Robert Parker) but also features Stephen Tanzer who is also a very serious wine critic previously owner of the International Wine Cellar.  By the way, Antonio also rehired other colleagues that used to be with Robert Parker before but are no longer. Subscription’s here start at $7.99 per month, the full subscription $140.

Eric Asimov’s weekly column in the New York Times, it comes every Wednesday and is free the day of. He is an excellent source of new gems… meaning wines that are far from traditional and is always looking for new things.

The Wine Enthusiast Magazine, this magazine comes out monthly and it will cost you about $30 per year, it's also available in digital format. Here, you will find scores, and also information about wineries, travel and food. Some of this info is available for free at their website.

There are few blogs out there that have become important in the last few years or so, one of them is the blog of James Suckling, he used to be with the Wine Spectator. Access to his reviews will cost you about $145 per year. He tastes everything. I don’t subscribe to this one, but have found his scores listed in many wine stores websites.

Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine, I love Jancis Robinson, she is based in the UK, I have several of her books including the Oxford Wine Companion (in my phone… I know I’m officially a wine nerd!). in order to see her reviews, she uses the 1-20pt system, you will need to pay £85, though some of her articles are free. 

Decanter Magazine, it’s also an English publication, I read the online version and follow them on twitter. Subscription starts at $12 per month.  I started doing this when I was studying for my WSET diploma, I really like their reviews. If you are looking for balance in wines, follow my advise and follow the English! Unfortunately some of the American critics are “parkerized”... meaning some of them follow Parker’s system of giving good scores only to Powerbomb wines (those that have big alcohol, fruit, tannins and body) if you like that great! but if you like balance like me... you need to explore other channels.

Andrea Immer Robinson, Master Sommelier. I love Andrea! and have most of her books. Besides giving online classes some of which are free, she provides tons of information about matching food and wine. She was one of my favorite teachers, plus I have attended several of her seminars. $29.95 for 1 year subscription.

1 Wine Dude Blog, easy peasy blog, I really like his style of ratings from A to F, like the grades you used to get in grammar school. This one is free for all.

Vivino, some of my students use this, it’s also free, but here the reviewers are the consumers not the press. It can really show trends and brand popularity. Best wines will feature scores up to 5 points. 
  
Before I go, it’s important that I say a few things, always check points and suggested retail price, meaning if a wine costs you $25 + look for at least 89 + points. But if you plan to buy wines that are $10 it’s ok to go below like between 86-89 pts. Never, ever go below 85 pts. This applies to Robert Parker, Wine Spectator, etc. 
For Jancis Robinson and Decanter, minimum 16.5 pts ideally 18-20pts for the best wines, in the case of 1 Wine Dude, A or B. For Vivino, at least 3.5 points and up. 

Also know that some reviewers are tougher than others, for example Robert Parker reviewers, Wine Spectator and Vinous are tough critics. One wine could receive 88 pts by any of them but will receive 90 or 91 pts by other critics such as Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling (a bit too generous for my taste). 

Remember that a critic's review should be your starting point, you need to follow up by tasting the wine and making your own opinion. Yes! taste as much as you can, and compare what you like (that includes my recommendations) and then follow that wine critic/taster of your choice. 

Until next time! Cheers. Silvina. For more wine recommendations, you can follow me on Instagram: Silvinalawina.

#thoughtsoflawina #WineWednesday #Wineratings

Basic Grapes: Pinot Noir

We continue today learning about the basic red grapes, and today it’s the turn of my favorite:Pinot Noir.

Seductive? yes, Elegant? yes, Irresistible? yes...Pinot Noir is all of these and so much more, mostly because it’s so silky and supple and a great start for those starting drinking red wines.

Originally, from Burgundy, Pinot Noir is the parent of many varieties including Chardonnay, Gamay, Aligoté, Muscadet, etc. It is very prone to mutate so it will adapt easily to any location and climate. Have you heard about Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier?… yep all of them are different mutations of Pinot Noir. 

Yet, Pinot Noir likes cool climates, but does best in warm vintages or in locations with good day/night temperature differences. It’s early ripening, and sensitive to rot, due onto its thin skins and does best with a slow and long ripening season. The best soils for Pinot Noir are limestone, marl and clay (clay usually gives wines with bigger bodies and structure).

Best samples of Pinot Noir come from Burgundy, but also Oregon (especially in the Willamette Valley), New Zealand (Martinborough, Marlborough, Central Otago), Australia’s Tasmania and Yarra Valley. However the best spots after Burgundy are in cool climate California locations, places like Russian River, Carneros, Sonoma, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Maria, Santa Ynez Valleys, etc. Chile produces fantastic, inexpensive Pinot Noir in its cool spots of Leyda and Casablanca. 
It likes low yields that will guarantee enough extract and concentration, though yields are higher in the new world, in Europe the rule is 35 hl/ha or less.

Stylistically it produces the lightest of all reds, its light color is a give away clue when tasting it blind next to other varieties. 
Bodywise, Pinot Noir will produce wines with light to medium bodied, with good acidity (sometimes medium + to high) and low to balanced tannins. It does not like too much oak, since oak will overpower its delicate aromas. When it is used, it is always second hand and for a very brief time, only the top and most expensive wines will see new oak. 

Fermentation temperatures are higher in Burgundy than in the New World, this will yield less fruity wines, more expressive of their terroirs. Sometimes producers choose to ferment whole clusters and or with their stems, macerations can last up to three weeks, followed by malolactic fermentation and aging in oak if any.

Pinot Noir most famous aromas are from red fruits such as strawberries, red cherries and raspberries. In warm climates it will also show a bit of black cherry. With age it will show aromas of forest floor, game, mushrooms, spice and  white truffles. Old world styles will show more vegetal, herbal and mineral aromas, while New world samples will be more fruit forward and with higher alcohol. 

If you plan to cellar these wines, you must know that Burgundy reds can last up to 15 years,  California samples up to 10 years, New Zealand samples will be best to be consumed young and up to 5 years. It’s important to find out about the vintages, if critics recommend to consume wines early, follow their advice. Though with global warming  Burgundy has seen some of its vintages in the last few years. 

By the way, Pinot Noir is also a key element in non vintage champagne, together with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.  Blanc de Noirs is a champagne style made only from Pinot Noir grapes. 

Recommended Producers:
Pinot Noir from Burgundy are some of the most expensive wines in the world, this is due in part to a very limited supply, inexpensive Pinot Noir comes from Chile, California and New Zealand with Oregon in between.

Burgundy: Domaine Armand Rousseau, Domaine Romaneé Conti, Domaine Leroy, Jacques Prieur, Domaine Faiveley, Olivier Bernstein, Meo Camuzet, Louis Jadot, Alex Gambal, Albert Bichot, Francois & Denis Clair.
California: Aubert, Paul Hobbs, Arista, Donum. Ken Brown, De Loach, Lucienne, Pali Wine Co,Belle Glos, Ghost Pines, Domaine Della, Ken Brown, La Crema, Cakebread.
Oregon: Alexana, Argyle, Ayoub, Beaux Freres, Bergstrom, Chapter 24, Chehalem, Domaine Serene, Aldelsheim, Lingua Franca,Resonance, Purple Hands, Siduri,Willamette Valley Vineyards. 

Here are some of the Pinot Noirs under $50, that I tasted lately:

Argyle Winery Nuthouse Pinot Noir Eola Amity Hills 2015, Oregon $50
Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2016, New Zealand $28
Cakebread Two Creeks Pinot Noir 2017, California, $45
Louis Jadot Bourgogne Rouge 2017, France $19 
Resonance Pinot Noir 2017, Oregon $35

Cheers! Silvina
For more wine recommendations, you can follow me on Instagram: Silvinalawina.

#WineWednesday #PinotNoir #lifeisbetterwithlawina

SAY NO TO WINE TARIFFS!

Do you enjoy European wines? 

Well maybe it’s time for us to stock up, since our dear government is planning to impose 100% tariffs on wines imported by France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Germany.
 
And I thought wine was already too expensive to begin with! This is going to affect the entire wine industry but mostly, we the wine consumers, who will end up paying the higher cost in our dear bottles, estimated to be up to 150%. 

So, the time to act is now my dear winos, let your voice be heard, the USTR is accepting public comments until January 13, 2020, here.
 
You can also write an email to your US House Representative and or US Senator to complain about this.
 
Cheers! Silvina
For more wine recommendations, you can follow me on Instagram: Silvinalawina.